Britain’s first ‘plant-based cheesemonger’ has outraged the traditional food industry. But can something made from nuts and coconut oil ever rival cheddar or camembert?
Dairy is torture for animals, disastrous for the environment and only questionably vital for good health – but the arguments increasingly piling up in favour of veganism are, for many, still amply dismissed by one straight from the heart: “I could never give up cheese.” The cheese on toast of childhood, bronzed at the edges and bubbling with Worcestershire sauce; the midweek pick-me-up of macaroni cheese; the cheeseboard lending a genteel veneer to late-night gossiping: for those who can stomach it, cheese is among the most potent and dependable of life’s little pleasures.
Though I have lived happily as a vegetarian for years, just the thought of even a Babybel (which I eat daily) silences the voice in my head nagging me to at least think about going vegan, starting next week, maybe. An ethical, sustainable alternative to cheese could be the vegan lobby’s coup de grâce.
To brie or not to brie: can vegan 'cheese' taste as good as dairy?